Final leg of our 2009 journey - Belgium
|
||||||||||||
|
|
||||||||||||
|
Our aim To
travel through the Ardennes to our winter mooring spot back at Nieuwpoort in
Belgium. This section covers the Belgium leg from Dinant to Nieuwpoort. We
will travel on several waterways: 1. Currently
on La Meuse River at Namur 2. Turning
off for the Sambre to Charleroi 3. Canal
Charleroi-Bruxelles to Seneff 4. Canal du
Centre to Peronnes 5. Along
the Escaut river to Bossuit 6. Canal Bossuit-Kortrijk
to Kortrijk 7. River
Leie to Gent 8. Gent-Oostende
canal to Plassendale 9. Canal
Plassendale-Nieuwpoort to Nieuwpoort (VVW Westhoek) The Journey This
is one of the most exciting stretches coming up. Highlights include amazing
scenery and ·
An open and working smelter which is also a
lock. ·
A funicular lift that will take us down
almost as many floors as our building in Sydney (27). ·
Being ‘run over’ by a huge commercial
barge. ·
The deepest locks .. at 12.5 metres (drop
in this case). ·
Heaps of great swing bridges, especially
around Bruges and Gent, but luckily operated for us. Dates: 23rd July to
21st August, 2009 Distance: 377 kilometres Locks: 42 Swing Bridges and
other ‘actions’:
23 Contents Final leg
of our 2009 journey - Belgium From 23rd
July at Givet to 28th July at Namur From 29th
July at Namur to 30th July near Seneff From 30th
July at Seneff to 2nd August at Antoing From 5th
August at Antoing to 11th August at Deinze From 11th
August at Deinze to home at Nieuwpoort by 21st August Previous waterway
section: Attigny to Givet 2nd to 20th
July
|
Map from PC Navigo |
|||||||||||
From 23rd July at Givet to 28th July at Namur |
||||||||||||
|
We
entered into Belgium just around the bend from Givet, new flag flying, heading
for Dinant which is only about 25 kilometres and four locks away. Not far
from Givet, across into Belgium, we stop to fuel at a river-side service with
small supermarket. This time we could pump the diesel straight into our two
tanks .. no mess! Juggling 20 litre drums, as we had to do in Pont a Bar, is
not nice. |
||||||||||||
|
|
|
|||||||||||
|
Coming in to Dinant
.. the stunning rock faced hills. Belgium flag flying. |
Rocher Bayard –
that rocky needle is 40m/131ft high, rising steeply up from the river. |
|||||||||||
|
You
certainly can’t miss Rocher Bayard (Rock Bayard) named after the horse of the
legendary four sons of Haimon (mentioned in previous section at Monthermé). The
legend says .. Fleeing from Charlemagne they all crossed the river in one
mighty jump, thereby splitting the rocky needle with its hooves. In fact a
thoroughfare was blown through the rocks in 1698! We
found a good mooring on the first bend coming in to Dinant by the casino.
There was one gap in the railing that allowed us to place the ramp from stern
deck to pavement, perfect! |
||||||||||||
|
|
|
|||||||||||
|
Looking down on
Collegiale ‘onion’ domes and the telepherique which of course was not
accessible having six or seven steps up to the base. So we took the very long
walk/scoot all the way to the top via the road. |
The town is
squeezed along the banks of the river hedged in by the cliff. It’s not easy
to get about and there are very few accessible restaurants, other than some
in the open area of the river bank, either too hot, too wet or closed! |
|||||||||||
|
Onwards
down river with beautiful sights all the way to our next stop not far away ..
|
||||||||||||
|
|
|
|
||||||||||
|
A
wonderful potter down river .. Beautiful valley, lush green with grand houses
peeping through and shining in the late sunshine. We find a delightful
mooring place .. no-one around .. seems a great discovery, this is Riviere.
|
||||||||||||
|
|
|
|||||||||||
|
Moored at Riviere |
We didn’t know it
but this peace and quiet will be transformed tomorrow! |
|||||||||||
|
|
|
|
||||||||||
|
We feel a little
anxious when we see a man with a ladder – installing speakers in the tree
adjacent to our mooring. |
And even more
worried when someone delivers a porta-loo right outside too. |
After a restless
night due to a constant stream of passing vehicles and people talking, at
6.00am we see we are virtually surrounded. |
||||||||||
|
It
was just by chance we pulled up in Riviere
(on La Meuse still) and didn't know for some time that there is a big
music festival in this town today, let alone it meant we'd be surrounded by
junk (a huge flea market). Despite this it’s very beautiful here
as there is a big mist flowing over the river and hiding the steep cliffs
around us. It should be quite a hot day. We're looking forward to the day but
not sure if Stewart can get access through the stalls.
|
||||||||||||
|
|
|
|||||||||||
|
That’s Endellion in
there behind the stalls .. not easy access now. |
The crowds run for
several kilometres along the river bank.
|
|||||||||||
|
|
|
|
||||||||||
|
The Riviere fete
under way beneath me – from the high ridge above Profondeville, just down
river. |
I read: the main
event of the festival is the bike jump into the Meuse, a "sport"
unique in Europe. |
Punishment Park
(cover band of Indochina) – the main act. |
||||||||||
|
This
was all more than we wanted... we thought we’d found the most supreme spot,
so quiet the evening of our arrival and to wake to be surrounded by the
biggest flea market I’ve ever seen and more entertainment in one place than
we’ve experienced to date was quite a shock. Fun too! On
now for Namur .. this will be the end of our fabulous journey on La Meuse
river as it’s here we turn on to the Sambre. It’s only a few hours journey
away and just three locks. We pottered past the citadel, heading past our
turning onto the Sambre river and turned to moor at the foot of the citadel .. but
could see this is not a good spot with signs pointing out limited spaces for
bateau de plaisance (boats like ours) as mostly this space was for commercial
boats. On the other side of the river is the marina that had several spaces
available but looked too small for us. I cycled around and it was confirmed,
yes, you can’t pull in here .. but the Capitaine contacted the marina we
passed a little while ago, on the other side of the lock, and yes they had a
place for us. The Plage de Amee marina is excellent – and has free wi-fi.
|
||||||||||||
|
|
|
|||||||||||
|
The gorgeous Meuse
river continues to delight us .. |
We turn towards the
Namur citadel and head back up to the river to the marina Plage de Amee.
|
|||||||||||
|
|
|
|
||||||||||
|
Provincial
Government of Wallonia. |
Cathedral St Aubain. |
Mooring at Plage de
Amee. |
||||||||||
|
We
love Namur .. full life, great street-side restaurants, fabulous buildings
and museums – and the citadel we will visit next time. We now leave the Meuse
and head along the Sambre .. the end of these short travel days with good moorings
.. we now have quite long stretches in store because there are fewer
facilities for a boat like ours (bigger than a cruiser the more common pleasure
boat, but much smaller than the big commercial barges. And the Sambre is
scenically very different from the Meuse ..
|
||||||||||||
From 29th July at Namur to 30th July near Seneff |
||||||||||||
|
|
|
|||||||||||
|
First we pass the
Sambre, turn and go back up the Meuse towards the citadel where we turn off
on the Sambre (to right). |
Abbey of Floreffe –
hereafter along the Sambre we have mostly factories and silos to look at! |
|||||||||||
|
|
|
|
||||||||||
|
Curious plants –
what do they make? |
Saw a sign for
’Solvay’ a plastics and pharmaceutical company. |
Perhaps this white
material is caustic soda flakes or by-product? |
||||||||||
|
|
|
|
||||||||||
|
Long waits at locks
as the commercial barges take precedence. |
This lock,
Salzinnes, is extremely slow to fill (we’re now rising again) and has an
unusual ‘gate’ system which slides in from the side rolling or pulled by
rigging hanging overhead. |
We’re moored
overnight (above) at a great pontoon at Auvelais but totally inaccessible
given it’s down a very steep bank. |
||||||||||
|
We
left Namur just before 9.00am and planned to stop near Floreffe for our lunch
break but couldn’t find the safe mooring matching the description in our
guide. This has often been the case .. long stretches of canal or river with
no safe mooring unless you are a massive commercial barge (huge bollards
spaced very far apart) or a small cruiser. We settled for a mooring at a
cliff edge in Floreffe under the Abbey. The bollards are so widely placed and
were so high up that the ropes are stretched to their full length – not a
good mooring but OK for lunch and loo break. And luckily by 3.45pm we found a
solid pontoon with cleats and bollards sensibly spaced for a very safe
overnight mooring at Auvelais .. not marked in our guide book. This seems to
be a favourite spot for fishermen .. no other boats today.
This
part of our journey is very ‘hard work’ as we just have to keep going through
this very industrial area, no safe moorings (or next to none) and high banks
which mean we can’t see much of the countryside. And even if we found a good
mooring there is no way we could get a ramp up the steep banks to get the
wheelchair off. |
||||||||||||
|
|
|
|
||||||||||
|
High banks along the
river and a lot of graffiti.
|
Busy loading ..
sometimes grain, often recycled product. |
Piles of silver
bricks (recycled aluminium perhaps). |
||||||||||
|
|
|
|||||||||||
|
|
|
|||||||||||
|
Through the centre
of Charleroi |
Heading straight
into the lock at Charleroi, called Marcinelle – it’s part of the steel works. |
|||||||||||
|
|
|
|
||||||||||
|
This is the lock-side
mooring. |
As the water rises
we watch the eerie workings beside us. |
Not a sole to be
seen but we hear machinery working around us. |
||||||||||
|
|
|
|||||||||||
|
We didn’t see one
person as we passed through here, but heard lots of clanking and hissing and were
conscious of a strong acrid smell. |
Rusting scrap iron
in heaps everywhere .. behind the river there must be a nice town there
somewhere – looking at the church spire. The banks are bit too high for us to
see beyond the water. |
|||||||||||
|
This is the strangest lock we’ve come across, the ‘Marcinelle Lock‘, which is right in the centre of, or is in fact, the actual steel works. It’s hard to imagine this huge complex surviving many more years as most of the vast structures are rusting away. Apparently it is still a working business. For a wonderful photo essay of the steel works and slag heaps around Charleroi, visit the StahlArt (steel art) Cockerill Sambre steel works website. In the middle of this strange place we had to make a sharp, somewhat concealed turn, into the Charleroi-Bruxelles canal to Seneff. |
||||||||||||
|
|
|
|
||||||||||
|
Now off the River
Sambre and onto the Canal Charleroi-Bruxelles. |
Ėcluse de
Gosselies behind us, another 7 metre drop. |
Finally we find
some lovely stretches of water and countryside. |
||||||||||
|
Seven
meter locks no problem as there are floating bollards .. well, if you are
able to be in the middle. We traveled all three locks with a péniche – the
first lock being shorter by 2.5 meters (at 85 meters) left very little
room at bow and stern, we had to stay firmly in place. Central rope and stern
rope seemed to work although the water transfer was very gentle, thankfully.
As our péniche neighbour said, in very good English, these are old locks and
for ‘us’ they are not good. I think by that he’s saying he can understand how
I felt.
Arrived
by 7.00pm at ADEPS Yacht Haven, near Seneff - very narrow entrance , no place
for us, kids in their kayaks playing water netball or similar. Moored by the
slipway on a short piece of pontoon and a piece of jetty where the geese
spend heaps of time (judging by the mess). Not ideal at all but all we could
find. The fingers, several being free, are only six or seven meters long.
No-one comes to help although a man is sitting on the stern of his boat nearby – and
another on his cruiser looks on and doesn’t move.
|
||||||||||||
|
|
|
|||||||||||
|
Finally moored just
after 7.00pm – not a good spot although a charming marina. |
Geese are put out
with our position on their wobbly pontoon – keeping us alert all night! |
|||||||||||
|
Finally and with some difficulty we are moored safely enough to visit the Capitainerie – I note I am five minutes after their closing time (7.05pm) but two men sit adjacent to the Capitaine who is behind a desk and greets me brightly: “Welcome” I asked if the way we have moored (on a completely inappropriate section of pontoon but the only space we could find) is OK and his answer .. “if you’re happy, I’m happy”. He was a delight!
Our mooring seems very
clearly to be the nesting spot for the geese and they made it very clear we
were not wanted! Staring us down (through the windows) and hissing at us,
stretching their necks and pointing their beaks in a menacing manner!
Unfortunately it is such a small space in here it isn’t very good for us ..
but thank goodness we could find somewhere off the canal where the huge
péniches are constantly running and there are no moorings out there.
We
can just turn in this small space to avoid having to reverse back out on
to the canal (Charleroi-Bruxelles) – we have with only a kilometre or so to
go to our turn off for the Canal du Centre.
|
||||||||||||
From 30th July at Seneff to 2nd August at Antoing |
||||||||||||
|
|
|
|
||||||||||
|
Long stretches of
well maintained canal. |
Porte de garde du
Blanc Pain – flood control gate. |
500 meter long
aqueduct just before the funicular lift. |
||||||||||
|
More
long straight stretches of well-maintained canal, under the very impressive
looking Porte de garde du Blanc Pain, across the 500 metre long aqueduct and
we can now see the massive structure of the Ascenseur Funiculaire de Strépy
ahead of us. It was quite strange
trying to work out what we do here .. never done anything like this before
and our guide doesn’t help at all. We radio and at least are given advice to
wait for around 30 minutes, and then we saw the lights change and presumed it’s
time to enter.
|
||||||||||||
|
|
|
|||||||||||
|
Ascenseur
Funiculaire de Strépy .. 73 meters drop (in our case, ie, descending) ..
coming up. |
Inside the lock..
dark – only one other boat with us, a
classic steam tug. |
|||||||||||
|
View
from the top (below middle photo) helps appreciate just how far down we have
to go. Once we pull inside the right lock (on this occasion) and tie off we
have plenty of time to wander around as we wait for something to happen. We’re
joined by one other charming classic steam tug and after fifteen minutes or
more there is a noise like being in a hanger with a jet starting its
engines! Huge noise and it’s very clear we’re under way .. you can see the
hills behind us moving.. and the big ‘window’ (seen in photo above right and middle
below) is widening lengthways. This is the most fantastic way of getting down
a big hill! No effort on my side .. we tie off on the bollards and the whole
‘bucket’ drops down with us in it so nothing more to do until we get to the
bottom. I found a YouTube video on the
whole process of this lift and the neighbouring one, ie, the hydraulic lift
on the Canal de Historique.
The
PC Navigo screen shot to left below shows our amazing trip from Nieuwpoort from
way back in May and now heading back to Nieuwpoort, almost 1,000 kilometres
and in particular it is showing the
heights and drops of locks. The sheer vertical line on right is this funicular lift, and the line before it, in
middle of screen, is the rise via the 27 locks from Le Chesne. This one, Ascenseur Funiculaire de Strépy
.. 73 meters drop (in our case, ie, descending) .. that’s huge. I had to
think about how many locks it would have taken at the fairly standard 2.5
meters, almost 30 locks (like the manual section Le Chesne)! The rise, for
example, on the Ardennes (the flight of 27 locks, was 80 meters and over a
distance of 15 kilometres). It is a stunning structure .. approached via the
recently completed aqueduct.
|
||||||||||||
|
|
|
|
||||||||||
|
PC Navigo screen
shot: Nieuwpoort to Nieuwpoort |
View from the top
from the end of the ‘lock’. |
View of the
structure from the bottom, behind us now. |
||||||||||
|
On
again and soon we are into one of the huge locks .. ten meters, but all
should have been fine as they had floating bollards. However, we had to go
through with a péniche and this meant no floating bollards available as we
had to squeeze into the very front of the lock. Awful time trying to get
stern rope onto floating bollard, central rope on same and bow rope on
bollard right up by the gate. Had to put bow rope on first to stop us dropping back onto the péniche. Then stern
to stop us floating into gate, central rope to stop us swing out at stern
– a huge juggle of ropes. Then hold the bow and readjust it to a lower
bollard as we dropped 10 meters, with boats only a few meters away. Phew!
|
||||||||||||
|
|
|
|||||||||||
|
The monster Pro
Veritate – a rare idiot péniche captain (tried to run us over), leaving écluse
d’Havre behind us.
|
Looking back at the
bridges, on the bend, where he overtook us. |
|||||||||||
|
The
monster Pro Veritate fully loaded who follows us out of the huge (10 metre
drop) écluse d'Havre.. little did we
know what was ahead.. There’s
only a short run to the next lock but there are a few bridges soon after we
exit the above lock and with the péniche well back behind us we agree it’s
best to get through the bridge (where it narrows and it would be dangerous
for overtaking) before pulling aside to let it pass.
However,
this very slow-moving fully laden péniche picked up speed and just before the
bridge, at the narrowest part, started overtaking us. As he increased speed
he created a huge bow wave which hit us just as he was overtaking us under
the bridge (the narrowest point) which funneled all the water into the
narrow gap making an even bigger bow wave which sucked us in towards the
péniche and then left us surfing down the wash and surging towards to bank
with rudder out of control (probably out of the water). We first thought we
were going to crash into the barge as it sucked us into it, and saw the faces
of the wife and daughter on board with expressions of total shock and panic.
They could see what was happening, dad at controls couldn’t give a hoot .. or
didn’t realise. Mum with her head out of the wheelhouse looking down at us ..
daughter looking out from room below deck through the curtain.. they could
see what has been created. The péniche surged on by and we almost did a 180
degrees into the canal bank, on the wash, until Stewart finally got Endellion
under control and facing the right way ..
we decided to pull up for lunch immediately after – all too much.
This
is the first time we have experience bad behaviour (actually dangerous) from
a commercial vessel .. every other péniche captain has been extremely helpful
(like the double péniche who towed us off the mud at Wambrechies) and
considerate. So watch out for Pro Veritate! Keep well away if you can. Over
lunch we recover and make the short run into Mons by 4.40pm in time for a
beautiful evening with full moon.
|
||||||||||||
|
|
|
|||||||||||
|
Clubhouse at Mons |
Mons marina is a
manmade basin in the middle of a long stretch of canal. |
Harbourmasters
Office overlooking marina. |
||||||||||
|
Finally
arriving at Mons – the marina big and way off from the canal in a basin, we
navigated around the yellow markers to the clear sign ‘Bazoekers’ or
‘Visiteurs’ pontoon and spotted a place probably long
enough, for us. But then we spotted a woman (just as we had pulled in) shouting at us .. no (in French) and on asking where can we moor, she saying she couldn't speak English.. we trying some French .. we decided we had therefore to travel on again into the canal and perhaps find a commercial barge mooring noted in the guide. However, just as we are leaving we are called in to a residential mooring space, thankfully we can overnight here. In fact we didn’t enjoy this marina at all .. it was accessible
(when we finally found a pontoon we were allowed to moor on) but the staff at
the clubhouse and the harbourmaster office were very miserable people (a rare
experience). There are few choices along the Canal du Central .. next is
Peronnes which we make for one night.
|
||||||||||||
|
|
|
|||||||||||
|
Finally, a floating
bollard (on port side) which I can tie off to my central cleat and drop the
12.5 metres with no hassle. |
Peronnes harbour –
another interesting water section at the junction of the Canal du Centre and
the Escaut which we join tomorrow. |
Restaurant and
Harbourmasters Office at Peronnes |
||||||||||
|
In
the morning we head off for a very short run to Antoing, just one lock only
5.6m deep. A great town .. definitely one to return to .. and excellent
mooring. From here we made a day trip to Tournai although not easy to get
there (trains not accessible and few buses are so a very long wait to return)
– some great buildings in Tournai but many not accessible and the cathedral
was closed for renovation. |
||||||||||||
|
|
|
|
||||||||||
|
Coming into Antoing
along the Escaut. |
Excellent port de
Plaisance at Antoing. |
Fantastic Chateau
des Princes de Ligne – the current generation prince still uses this as one
of his residences. A fabulous tour. |
||||||||||
From 5th August at Antoing to 11th August at Deinze |
||||||||||||
|
|
|
|
||||||||||
|
Looking down on the
Port de Plaisance at Antoing, on the right bank there is a fuel barge and chandlery. |
Passing through
Tournai – the very efficient lift bridge is right in the centre of town so we
travel in convoy to reduce disruption to traffic. |
.. going under the
ancient Pont des Trous, built in 1281, 1290 or 1329 (take your pick – it’s
old!). |
||||||||||
|
A
very pleasant run on this stretch of river (L’Escaut or Scheldt) all the way
to Bossuit where we read in the Belgium Waterways book “Bossuit yacht haven
.. mooring on fingers and alongside.. electricity and water” and thought this
a good place to moor overnight. However, there was nothing except a concrete
bank with cleats fitted.. an overgrown bank (not accessible) and slipway.
What is the story? Never mind ..we found a good mooring above the Bossuit
lock and had a very pleasant meal at the VVV Westvlaamse tourist office
cafe/restaurant. |
||||||||||||
|
|
|
|||||||||||
|
The phantom mooring
at Bossuit on the Escaut side described in our guide as having electricity
and water and an excellent mooring. There are a couple of cleats here but
that’s all and not accessible.
|
Our mooring above
the lock at Bossuit (from Escaut) ahead of this Tjalk. A fantastic pontoon,
no water or electricity but easy access. However .. water skiing school
right beside us!
|
|||||||||||
|
|
|
|
||||||||||
|
Water skiing right
beside us on our very good pontoon. |
|
Very pleasant
canal-side restaurant and |
||||||||||
|
We
had a very pleasant run through this canal (Bossuit-Kortrijk) in stunning
sunshine and not too hot. Two huge automated locks a breeze and then three
manual locks, we haven’t seen this
type for a very long time. |
||||||||||||
|
|
|
|
||||||||||
|
Perfect weather on
the Bossuit-Kortrijk canal |
Two locals operate
the first of the flight of three manual locks. |
Finally – three
hours later, we get the last kilometre into Kortrijk. |
||||||||||
|
It
took us the best part of three hours to get through these three locks which
were very close together. Extremely hard work for the lock keepers so I can
imagine these are the least-popular locks with travelers and keepers! Our
keeper (David we think) was very helpful although somewhat put out that two
local old timers decided to operate the first manual lock for us. This did
put us in the middle of the set which put other boats out of sync. We should,
apparently, have waited but there were no bollards to moor off to and holding
Endellion in the narrow windy canal wasn’t easy (the sides of the canal are
not a good place to be as there is either mud, rocks or rubbish which isn’t
very friendly). We think our locals saw our dilemma and decided to help out (they could well be ex-lock-keepers)!
|
||||||||||||
|
|
|
|||||||||||
|
These classic lock
gates are similar to those on most of the waterways in the UK. They’re at the
end/beginning of the Bossuit-Kortrijk canal from the Leie river in Kortrijk
and where we moored for one night as this also gave us good access to get off
to explore the city. |
Moored at Town
Quays right in the centre of Kortrijk but this is not accessible – neither is
the other Port de Plaisance where we stayed on our trip through here in June. |
|||||||||||
|
|
||||||||||||
|
Our second mooring
on the outskirts of Kortrijk .. no water or electricity but accessible and
with lovely neighbours who keep this bank so nicely mown. |
Google map of
Kortrijk shows the two marinas in the town and the Bossuit-Kortrijk canal
entrance on the right just under the main bridge. We moored (left photo) on
the outskirts of town by the traffic lights for the most accessible place. |
|||||||||||
From 11th August at Deinze to home at Nieuwpoort by 21st August |
||||||||||||
|
From
Deinze to Gent along the River Leie we had a fantastic trip, incredibly
bendy, narrow, bushy and delightful. |
||||||||||||
|
|
|
|||||||||||
|
Through the Deinze
lift bridge continuing on the river Leie, not the canal section into Gent. |
Moored just through
the lift bridge at Deinze .. we couldn’t find a better place – no access. |
|||||||||||
|
|
|
|||||||||||
|
The river Leie
starts out nice and wide and straight .. soon it is anything but! |
Through the lift
bridge at Astene – our lock-keeper arrived soon after 10.00am. |
|||||||||||
|
The
lift bridge and open lock-keeper seems to fit with this old world experience ..
a chap who arrived wearing a waistcoat (below), slow and methodical, at
10.00am (well, soon after) as promised, ie, we arrived to see it closed and
no-one around. Had to call the lock keeper number and were told, yes, someone
should be there at 10.00am when it is manually opened. But we didn’t know we
had to be there at a certain time.. lucky for us we arrived exactly at this
time.
|
||||||||||||
|
|
|
|
||||||||||
|
Lift bridge at
Astene is manually operated and opens on the hour. |
Rather rickety
pontoons at the Astene marina. |
Very pleasant
riverside restaurants here and there. |
||||||||||
|
|
|
|||||||||||
|
Cattle grazing and
across the field is the meandering river, boat roof visible. |
It becomes
narrower, bushier and windier as we get closer to Gent. |
|||||||||||
|
|
|
|||||||||||
|
Very bendy Leie
Google satellite shot of a section. |
Mooring possibility
at St Martens. |
Moored at St
Martens-Latem for lunch break. |
||||||||||
|
|
|
|
||||||||||
|
Church at St
Martens-Latem |
Grand houses,
gardens and people with a sense of humour. |
Crossing the
Ringvaart. |
||||||||||
|
While
"Latem" used to be known as an artists' colony before World War II,
nowadays St Martens-Latem is one of the most residential municipalities in
Belgium. We are now only 10km south-west of Ghent .. by road anyway. If we
come this way again, and we’d like to, it may be possible to moor at St
Martens-Latem pontoon .. although there is a sign stating a large space has
to be reserved for a tourist boat .. we didn’t see it but read that this
stretch of water, the Leie, is very busy in the summer months. Crossing
the Ringvaart was daunting, coming so serenely along the Leie until around
the bend we see the bridge and the Ringvaart and at that moment a huge
péniche goes roaring past. Wow, I think, we need to get this right as we have
to shoot across this major junction and could get run over, literally. I go
to the bow just as another péniche, coming the other way, roars by and two
big cruisers come in behind it and turn under the bridge towards Gent where
we are heading. Luckily, all is now clear and we shoot safely across.
|
||||||||||||
|
|
|
|||||||||||
|
The canal winding
its way into the heart of Gent. |
Our first mooring
(one night) at Gent Centrum .. accessible onto the pontoon but not from there
to the bank – so it’s no good for us but a lovely marina. |
|||||||||||
|
We
checked the other marina in the centre of the city, ie, Portus Ganda and yes
they had a mooring for us which is accessible so we had a fabulous tour
through the heart of the city along the old canals to our new mooring which
will be ideal as we will be here several days. |
||||||||||||
|
|
|
|
||||||||||
|
Canal-side
restaurants .. we could probably moor and eat here. |
Narrow but
charming. |
We think we’re heading
in the right direction. |
||||||||||
|
|
|
|||||||||||
|
Here we are moored
at Portus Ganda .. excellent and lovely neighbours too. |
I think Gent is our
favourite city – full of life and vitality (a university city) and not just
tourism.
|
|||||||||||
|
We’re
nearly at the end of our 2008/2009 journey – we meet my dear niece Jac and her
friend Isobel who will travel with us for a week .. and cook us dinner one night!
Soon we will be in Bruges (for the second time) and travel back to Nieuwpoort
on familiar waters.
|
||||||||||||
|
|
|
|
||||||||||
|
Leaving Gent behind
us .. well we travel around it then on to Bruges. |
Niece Jac watching
the world slip by .. on stern deck. |
A beautiful sunny
day as we glide along to Bruges. |
||||||||||
|
|
|
|||||||||||
|
Stewart’s at the
wheel (through the central window), Jac and Isobel with life jackets enjoy
fresh air. |
Coming into Bruges
through a swing bridge. |
|||||||||||
|
|
|
|||||||||||
|
Moored at the
Coupure in the heart of Bruges. |
Further along the
coupure – not boats, just swans. Jac and Isobel love it. |
|||||||||||
|
|
|
|
||||||||||
|
Wandering around
the great city of Bruges. |
Culinary delights
on offer. |
Jac (left) doing
the taste test. Yes.. mmm. |
||||||||||
|
One
of the delights of being a few days in Bruges, in the baking heat (around 30
degrees C) is exploring the gorgeous city .. and having a meal cooked for us
by niece Jac and her friend Isobel: cooking .. onions making Isobel’s mascara
run down her cheeks! “Do you have any garlic, I forgot to buy it”... always a
good call. Yes we do. Jac chopping carrots, much easier than onions (on the
eyes anyway). A really delicious meal
with curly pasta (perfectly al dente), freshly made tomato sauce with lots of
onion and one clove of garlic, carrots (“they’re crunchy, they won’t cook”)
and courgette with tuna.
|
||||||||||||
|
|
|
|||||||||||
|
Busy bees.. and
happy tanned people. |
Delicious .. we had
mussels and other meals around town but tonight eating in is a delight. |
|||||||||||
|
We
say goodbye to our girls .. they’re off by train from Bruges to Brussels and
then fly back to Cornwall via Exeter. It’s been a real treat to have their
company and now it’s back to the two of us to make the trip over familiar
waters into Nieuwpoort and our winter berth at VVW Westhoek. |
||||||||||||
|
|
|
|
||||||||||
|
Leaving Coupure
harbour the lift bridge rolls up to let us onto the Gent-Oostende canal. |
Stunning day .. a
few lift bridges.. |
A few windmills and
we’re almost home. |
||||||||||
|
|
|
|||||||||||
|
The impressive
Jabbeke lift bridge in action. |
Final run into
Nieuwpoort along the Plassendale-Nieuwpoort canal at Leffingebrug, one of our
favourite towns. |
|||||||||||
|
|
|
|||||||||||
|
Final sluice St
Jorris for this year brings us into the broad water of Spaarbekken Basin |
Endellion in her
winter berth at VVW Westhoek marina at Nieuwpoort, Belgium. |
|||||||||||
|
A
perfect place for Endellion to over-winter, snuggled in by De Spits who will
leave soon and in comes Daan’s barge from the Gravensluis moorings. We have a
lovely Capitaine (Guy) and great neighbours. |
||||||||||||